• Load analysis example for an efficient and inefficient house.
• Blank Load Analysis work sheet.

It's not that we really care about electricity. We don't even care about the appliances that the electricity powers. Our wants and needs are even more basic than that. We want to read after dark, hear good music, and learn about what is happening in the world. We want water on demand and unspoiled food. We don't need the electricity like we don't need the drill. What we need is the hole.

Electricity is merely a tool used to meet our needs and wants. When planning a renewable energy (RE) system it is important not to lose sight of what our needs actually are. Only once our needs are defined, can we then begin to design a RE system to meet them. We must analyze each need and determine how much energy it takes to meet them. We must analyze each need and determine how much energy it takes to meet that need. Long before we start comparing prices on photovoltaic modules, we must first create a list of needs called a "load profile". This article will first discuss some important considerations in choosing appliances to meet certain needs. Then we will go through a step by step discussion of the various elements in a load profile.

Why do a load profile?

RE systems are sometimes expensive. Costs to produce one's own electricity from renewable sources average between $0.25 and $1.15 per kilowatt hour (kWh). This is many times the price of buying power from the electric utility. Off grid, it is a waste of money to use more energy than we need to and a waster of money to produce energy that is not used.

If done correctly, your load profile's average daily kWh figure can be quite accurate. Careful load analysis can assure that we size our RE system appropriately.

Which loads are appropriate?

Most of us need to seek out as much functionality from as little energy as possible. For example, electricity is an expensive way to produce thermal energy. The electricity needed to provide space heating is generally cost prohibitive. Passive solar, wood heat, and propane furnaces are all much more practical. Domestic hot water heaters and cookstoves are also best powered by passive solar, wood, or gas.

Certain loads can be powered by electricity or by other sources. Refrigeration is a good example. Propane refrigerators are available but have their own set of pros and cons. In an energy efficient home the electric refrigerator (even the energy efficient kind) is usually the largest single load. Many RE systems use electric well pumps, but wind powered mechanical pumps have effectively provided domestic water for generations. These choices are ours. Do we need a 1,200 watt hairdryer or will a towel do just as well? Is using candles or kerosene for light really a smart (or safe) alternative to compact fluorescents?

Some needs are surprisingly appropriate for use with renewable energy systems. Power tools, microwave ovens, toasters, and other kitchen appliances can draw a lot of power and are often mistakenly considered to be too much for a RE system. Actually, these appliances are used for short periods of time and the energy consumed is rather small.

Why pay extra for efficiency?

It might sound like we must do without certain luxuries in order to live with a renewable energy system. This is not the case! RE systems can provide the same amenities that our city cousins enjoy. The trick is to carefully choose how these luxuries are implemented. The most cost effective way to produce one's own energy is to first reduce one's needs for that energy. Richard Perez has a saying that sums it up quite well, "Every watt not used is a watt that doesn't have to be produced, processed, or stored." When buying grid power we can dip into a limitless supply and pay as we go. But with RE systems the cost of the energy is the up front cost of expensive system components. Choosing energy efficient appliances is cheaper than renewable energy system components.

For example, compact fluorescent light bulbs have improved immensely. The light is natural colored, flicker free, and very efficient. A 15 watt compact fluorescent produces the same amount of light as a 60 watt incandescent bulb--at one fourth of the power consumption. They cost about $22 but last 10,000 hours, about ten times longer than a standard incandescent bulb. More important is the money saved by power that doesn't have to be produced. Saving 450 kWh of electricity, at $0.65 per kWh (a hypothetical middle ground cost for RE based on a well designed photovoltaic system with generator back-up), over the bulb's lifetime translates to about $292 dollars. More than enough savings to cover the $7 price difference between one compact fluorescent and ten incandescence!

Refrigeration is another good example of energy efficiency paying for itself. It is often the largest load in a RE-powered home. A sixteen cubic foot Sun Frost fridge may cost $2,500 but uses only about 540 watt hours each day. A typical major brand, non-efficient fridge may cost only $600 but will use 1,500 watt hours per day. Assuming $0.65 per kWh for an RE system, the electricity to operate the non-efficient fridge for ten years costs about $3,558. The electricity to operate the Sun Frost for ten years costs about $1,281. The difference is $2,277 worth of renewable energy system components that never need to be purchased, and more than covers the $1,900 difference in price.

A good rule of thumb is that for every extra dollar spent on energy efficient appliances, three dollars will be saved in energy system components. It becomes obvious that before one dollar is spent on photovoltaic panels, wind generators, or hydro turbines we must streamline our electrical demands.

Are phantom loads really a big deal?

If you read many home power articles then you know phantom loads are one of our biggest problems. Phantom loads use electricity while providing nothing in return. A phantom load is any appliance that consumes power even when it is turned off. While they may seem small, they use power twenty-four hours a day. A 4 watt phantom load can cost about $22 a year on a RE system, a lot for an appliance that is supposed to be off.

Any appliance with an electronic clock or timer is a phantom load. If we want a clock we should use one that is mechanically wound, battery powered, or even electrical. But a clock in an appliance keeps the appliance's entire power supply "alive" just to tell us the time. Very inefficient.

Appliances with remote controls remain alive while waiting for the "on" signal from the remote. Any appliance with a wall cube is also a phantom load. A wall cube is a small box that plugs in to an AC outlet to power appliances. Wall cubes consume 20 to 50% of the appliance's rated power even when the appliance is off.

Most modern TV's, VCR's, stereos, computers, fax machines, and other electronics are phantom loads. They may contain a transformer, much like a wall cube, that stays alive even when the appliance is off and consumes between 50 and 200 watt-hours per day. They may also contain a filter or line conditioner, to clean up incoming power for the sensitive electronics inside, consuming 8 to 40 watt-hours per day.

Modern televisions have an "instant on" feature so we don't have to wait for the picture tube to warm up. We might as well call these TV's "always on". The most direct way to overcome phantom loads is to unplug the appliance when it's not in use. A more convenient technique is to use a switched plug strip. These short extension cords with multiple receptacles allow us to cut all power to multiple appliances with one flip of a switch. Use care when shopping for appliances that will run on a renewable energy systems. Models that are not phantom loads often have the fewest ball and whistles, but are the least expensive.

How to do a load analysis

On this link, we have included a load profile form for you . Every appliance in your household that receives regular use should be logged onto this form. When completed you will have an accurate estimate of your average daily kWhs used. This is the foundation on which to build a RE system.

You may be planning for future RE system at a home that is not yet completed or fully inhabited. This is important to estimate your future loads as accurately as possible. Try to be realistic about your lifestyle and energy usage habits (Americans watch twice as much TV as they think they do). Be aware of possible appliance purchases in the future, like for growing families. Remember obscure loads such as well pump, satellite dish, garage door opener, etc. The accuracy of the final estimate is dependent on the accuracy of your initial data. In a load analysis, we evaluate a variety of parameters for each appliance. By combining this data, we will be able to see this appliance's impact on your energy needs as a whole, and in comparison with other appliances. What follows is a discussion of parameter and how to obtain the data.

• Column A: Appliance: Simply, what Appliance are you testing?
• Column B: Number: How many of these appliances? An example of identical appliances is lights. There is no need to list every light bulb in the house separately. Rule of thumb is one light for every member of the household. Imagine each person has a light that follows them around the house as they move. This is just an analogy, and until technology improves, it is up to each person to throw the switches to get their light to follow them. Ideally then, a three person family should be able to enter 3 in this column for personal lighting. Lights of different wattages should get separate enteries. A light on a timer in the driveway should get its own entry, as should a night-light that stays on all night in the hallway.
• Column C: Load Voltage: At what voltage does this appliance operate? RE systems are moving away from 12 Volt systems. Modern RE-Powered homes often run on 24 or even 48 Volt systems. Some DC appliances are available for 12 Volt, less so for 24 Volt. Most inverter-powered AC appliances run at 110 Volts (117 Volts rms) but we must not forget about the indispensable 220 volt power tool.
• Column D: AC or DC: Does this appliance operate on inverter power or directly from battery power? Inverters consume power by just being on. However, many renewable energy system users are finding that the advantages of constant ac power easily offset inverter losses.
• Column E: Inverter Priority: Does this appliance spend a large amount of time on? The purpose of this column is to get a feel for the normal operating wattage of the inverter. If an appliance spends a good deal of time on or if we want to be sure that this appliance will always have access to inverter power, then we consider it to be an inverter priority load. Any appliance that turns itself on and off must be an inverter priority load because we cannot control its access to the inverter. Some loads are operated infrequently and we can decide what other appliance we will allow to operate at the same time. These loads are not inverter priorities. Later, when we are designing our RE system, this column will help us choose the size of our inverter. It will also help determine the inverter's average operating efficiency.
• Column F: Run Watts: How much power does the appliance consume when in use? The most accurate way to determine this is to measure current through the appliance then multiply by 117 volts if it's an ac appliance. If the appliance is DC, multiply the measured Amps by the system voltage to determine Watts. Measuring Amps involves getting an ammeter in series with the load. Another technique for measuring amps, if your meter has limited amp capability, is to use a shunt. A shunt is a small resistor of known value. It, like an ammeter, must be placed in series with the load being tested. Once in place, measure voltage across the shunt, then use Ohm' law to determine the amperage. If you don't want to buy a shunt then make one out of a #10 wire. One foot of #10 copper wire has a resistance of 0.001 ohms. Set you voltmeter to the millivolt scale and measure the voltage drop across the makeshift shunt. Electrical appliances display their power use data on a plate or sticker. The noted watt value represents a worst case scenario, the most power that the appliance will ever draw. We generally don't listen to the stereo with the volume all the way up (punk rockers aside), or juice marbles in the blender. If you want accurate numbers, you should measure actual watts. If you can't measure then derate the sticker wattage by about 25%.
• Column G: Hours per Day: How much is the appliance used each day? In some ways this information is easy to figure: The radio plays every morning for forty-five minutes while you get ready for work. The washing machine takes twenty minutes to complete a cycle. Other appliances are more tricky, for example the three light bulbs for your three person family. You need to guess how much time each day that each light is on. Some appliances turn themselves on and off automatically. Refrigerators start up when the temperature inside gets too warm. They run until they are cooled down to certain temperature when they turn themselves off. This is called a "duty cycle:" and can be estimated by direct observation. Just pay attention to how often that fridge comes on and how long it stays on. When determining energy use, the time element of column G is interconnected with the power element of column F. We can ignore duty cycle by using a recording ammeter and a stopwatch. Simply divide total amp-hours consumed by the number of hours tested to obtain a constant amp rating. Multiply amps times appliance voltage (column E) to get watts (column F). Then use 24 hours per day in column G.
• Column H: Days per Week: Do you do wash every day? Do you only watch TV on Saturday mornings? This helps determine average energy use per day.
• Column I: Average Watt-hours per Day: Number (Column B) x Watts (Column F) x hours (Column G) x days (Column H) divide 7 days per week = average watt-hours per day for this appliance. B x F x G x H divide 7 = ? This amount tell us, on average, how much electricity is consumed each day by this appliance. The total at the bottom of this column tells us how much electricity we use on an average day.
• Column J: Percentage of Total Electricity: Use Just for your information, what percentage of total electrical use does this appliance represent?
• Column I: the total sum of column I for all appliances.
• Column K: Starting Surge in Watts: Does this appliance have a starting surge? How much? Any appliance with a motor has a starting surge. This means that before the motor is up to operating speed it is drawing more than its rated operating power. This is especially true if the motor is starting under load. Refrigerators, well pumps, and most power tools have starting surges. Motors surge between three and seven times their rated wattage. Other appliances that may have starting surges are TVs, computer monitors, and many appliances with an internal power supply. These loads have large capacitors that charge themselves when the appliance is first turned on. They can surge up to three times there rated wattage. Because they are relatively short-- in the millisecond range--starting surges don't make much of a difference in the amount of energy that an appliance consumes starting surges are important, however. Inverters must be sized to handle the starting surge of ac appliances. Battery banks must also be sized to handle the voltage depression caused by a high amp surge. Voltage depression can cause an inverter to shut down even if the inverter itself is large enough to handle the surge. Measuring the starting surge of an appliance require a meter with a peak hold (maximum) capability.
• Column L: Phantom Load: Does this appliance consume power even when turned off? Home Power is ruthless with phantom loads! Our offices are totally controlled by plug strips. No phantom load is allowed to haunt the system. Column L will do three things. First, it reminds us to check each appliance while doing our load profile. Second, it reminds us later that this appliance is a phantom load and must be dealt with as such. Third, if for some reason this appliance is allowed to operate as a phantom load, we will remember that a separate entry must be made in the load table to reflect its energy usage (whenever the appliance is not in use).

The completed load survey

You have combed your house testing loads. You have estimated future loads and maybe even made purchase decisions based on this load survey. But what does the table really tell you? The total at the bottom of column I is most important. This number represents the average daily electricity that your household uses. This is also the amount of power that your RE systems must generate daily. Some days you do wash and some you don't.

Some days you run a lot of power tools. Some days the sun shines and some it doesn't. There are inefficiencies in batteries and inverters. There are a lot of other variables involved in system design. However, average daily kWh is the basic need that must be met.

All system design starts here!

Other information in this table (inverter priority wattage, max ac wattage, and max ac surge wattage) will become useful during system design. Do you install 220 volts worth of inverter or do you run your single 220 vac load on your generator? Do you want an inverter that can run your ac well pump at the same time as the washing machine? What happens when someone turns the microwave oven on too? If you ran the fridge and the well pump on DC, can you get away with a smaller inverter? These kinds of questions will come up during system design. Being able to refer back to a complete and detailed load profile will help with the answers.